Challenge 1: Foundations Regency Underpinnings

Sophia here! So for the first HSM challenge of the year I decided to tackle Regency underpinnings. So I have always been very inspired by post revolutionary France and the dramatic impact that it had on fashion. I needed these foundations to build on for the War and Peace challenge later this year. I shot the photos on my lovely friend Victoria.

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The research:

ResearchRegency

While I was researching I found such a wide variety from this era. It was a major transition from the hard boned stays of the 1700s to the soft corded stays of the early 1800s. I tried to keep these short stays historically plausible but I also wanted them to fit my body type and have decorative corded elements. I would like to change the stays to fan lacing when I can figure it out. (tips anyone?)

The Process:

cording

To start with I made an inner layer out of a light weight cotton it hold the plastic bones in place to be corded around. Then I stitched it to the upper layer starting from the center and working my way outwards. To cord I used 3 strands of light weight cotton yarn used for crocheting.

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The gussets in the lining are machine stitched a big no no considering I hand stitched the rest.

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I made the busk out of a paint stir stick.

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The eyelets were stitched over metal washers to insure security.

The Results:

2009-03-08 19.31.10 copy

2009-03-08 19.32.16 copy

2009-03-08 19.36.12 copy

2009-03-08 19.38.36 copy

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The Details
Fabric: Stays: 100% cotton jean outside, 100% cotton broadcloth lining, 100% cotton interlining Chamise: 100% cotton bleached muslin
Pattern: Both pieces were self drafted.
Year: 1800-1815
Notions: Both pieces were sewn with cotton thread and have cotton draw strings. The stays are corded with cotton cording and have a small amount of plastic boning. The busk was made from a wooden paint stirrer stick. I did use metal washers to reenforce the eyelets.
How historically accurate is it? Stays: 90% all visible stitching is hand done. The design is a combination of several examples from the Met. The metal washers and plastic boning take it down a few points. Chamise: 60% they are machine sewn and too short I want to lengthen them with another panel. The pattern is correct.
Hours to complete: Stays: So many that it makes my head spin. Chamise: One afternoon.
First worn: To shoot photos on my model. I’ll probably wear them for the war and peace challenge.
Total cost:Under 50$ some notions were stash and the yardage was under 10$ yrd.

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1920-30’s Lingerie Set

Erin here! I was really excited for the first HSM challenge “Foundations”, as I have been making 1920s and 30s dresses for the past year but never had the correct undergarments to wear with them. I bought the book Vintage Lingerie by Jill Salen on a whim a while back, and wanted to recreate a 1920’s bra that was featured in the book.

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The description in the book says that this particular set was made by nuns in Ceylon, and the detail is extraordinary. It’s made in a similar way to the Kestos bra, straps crossing in the back and wrapping around the front, hooking to front buttons for closure.

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This was my first time sewing lingerie, so I drafted this pattern without all the fussy details of the original (though I would love to recreate this set in full one day!) Using the pattern from Vintage Lingerie as a basis was fine for a trial run, but I wish they had given more specifics. I made mine without elastic in the straps, as the author didn’t mention elastic at all in the description, so it’s slippery and impractical when I move around. I’ll definitely be trying this again – with a few little alterations to the shape and changing the back straps to covered elastic. (I apologize for the grainy photos! I was using a phone camera for this post!)

full bra

bra detail 3

This bra was popular into the 1930’s, so I decided to pair it with the whimsical Circular French Knickers that Jeanne of VeraVenus created a wonderful tutorial for. They were super easy to make with this tutorial, and so pretty.

tap pantspanty detail
And finally, though I am a bit camera shy (especially wearing lingerie, on the internet!) I would like to present the final ensemble, worn here with a vintage chenille bathrobe from the same era!
  
 lingerie set

The Challenge: #1 Foundations

Fabric: Silk Habotai

Pattern: Bra adapted from Vintage Lingerie by Jill Salen, Circular French Knickers from VeraVenus

Year: late 1920s – early 1930s

Notions: hook and eye, two buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it? About 80%, I’m not sure that the fabric is entirely accurate, and unfortunately I made the bra straps to cross in front when I don’t think they are supposed to!

Hours to complete: 4, including drafting the patterns

First worn: For this photo, this morning

Total cost: $1, I got the fabric for free and only paid for the buttons at a local sewing shop

Historical Sew Monthly January Progress

Sophia here! So I have been making slow but fruitful progress on my regency stays. I also plan on making a chamise and stockings based on The Dreamstress’ wonderful pattern. So here are few pictures of my progress. Look forward to my complete post later this month.

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The pattern which has been ever changing since I started sewing.

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The bust gussets turned out to be really fun to make.

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The start of the body, unfortunately my had sewing precision is lacking but this is my first hand sewn period garment.